Runway Report: CHANEL Fall-Winter 2017/2018
When Karl Lagerfeld erects an actual functioning rocket in the Grand Palais to act as the backdrop for a CHANEL prêt-à-porter show, one is assured of not only a rather epic presentation, but a quite stunning collection as well. With one of his most impressive sets to date as a stage, Monsieur Lagerfeld showed a collection that encompasses all that is exquisite about his helming of the house of CHANEL. A sublime mixture of the feminine and masculine, the masterful mixing of the modern and the classic, and a fierce devotion to the heritage of this legendary house have come to represent Lagerfeld’s direction of Gabrielle Chanel’s eponymous line.
Models walked the runway of Centre de lancement N°5 with glittering boots at their feet and sparkling headbands atop their heads done in crystals and faux pearls reminiscent of stars in the night sky. Indeed, Monsieur Lagerfeld noted that the collection is “a journey through the sky, to the heart of constellations…”. With a colour palette of black, white, silver, and grey, there are also brilliant hints of colour with rich blues, purples, and reds. Thematic prints of an eclipse motif and astronauts are perfectly playful without being overly obvious. As always, the iconic tweed suit features prominently and is shown for the Fall-Winter 2017/2018 season with square shoulders that appear to emerge from a gilet. In fact, tweed features heavily throughout the collection in the form of skirts, dresses, and coats adorned with sequins, iridescent thread, crystal embroidery, and metallic and beaded braids. Lagerfeld even borrows inspiration from the topography of far off planets with bubbled vinyl and jewelled collars done as a nod to the rings of Saturn.
Monsieur Lagerfeld expertly plays with proportion, using volume to take centre stage in the form of reefer jackets and oversized coats finished with futuristic buttons. Collars are round, rigid, and high on jackets, and dresses and are done in sparkling tweed, satin, or double crepe giving them the appearance of awaiting the final addition of a helmet before taking off for outer space. The space theme is continued on in the form of minaudières in the shape of a rocket or planet, while the BOY CHANEL bag is shown with a shiny chevron motif. As for the standout new CHANEL GABRIELLE bag, it is shown in a luxurious metallic leather.
Make sure to check back next week for a post solely dedicated to the stunning bags and accessories of the CHANEL Fall-Winter 2017/2018 collection!
Photography c/o CHANEL